VintageSparkles Costume Jewelry Dictionary & Patent Dates

Assay-   the process of establishing the standards of purity of gold, silver and other alloys reach the required legal standard without actually analysing the total composition of the alloy. After successful assay the article is hallmarked outside the US.

Baguette - A gemstone cut in a narrow rectangular shape reminiscent of a loaf of French Bread. Small Diamonds cut in this way are often used as accents for Rings and Necklaces.

BAKELITE: A trademark for a synthetic resin chemically formulated and named after Belgian chemist, L. H. Backeland (1909). This newer plastic was for molding items formerly created in the highly flammable Celluloid or in hard rubber molds. It is capable of being molded and carved.

Bangle - A rigid bracelet that slips over the hand, or hinged oval worn over the wrist. Some close with a clasp.

Baroque - as a pearl : uneven or craggy shape or
surface. Also an irregularly shaped stone or bead. In jewelry it is bold, ornate, heavy-looking ornamentation.

BASSE-TAILLE: A type of enameling in which a metal plate is cut to various depths into which translucent enamel is poured, thus achieving a 3-dimensional effect. The depth of relief produces shadings from light to dark. The deeper the metal is incised, the darker the color; where shallow routing occurs, the shading is almost transparent. This routing is worked intaglio, the opposite of repousse work. (See INTAGLIO and REPOUSSE).

Betrothal ring called anulus pronubus in ancient Rome, betrothal rings were presented by a man to his fiancee showing their intention to marry. From earliest times usually a plain ring without a stone, most popularly a lover's knot ring or fede ring.

Bezel accurately the top, forward facing rim or edge of a ring which holds the stone, now commonly used to describe an entire ring setting. On a signet ring, the bezel is the flat face used to form an impression in wax.

BIB NECKLACE A bib necklace (also known as a
collarette) is a short necklace with flowing ornaments in the front.

BOG-OAK old oak wood that has been blackened and preserved by being in low-oxygen Irish and Scottish peat-bogs for thousands of years. Bog-oak was carved and used as inexpensive Victorian era jewelry. It was also used for decorative objects, bowls, chests, dagger handles, and other decorative items

BOOKCHAIN A bookchain is a metal chain with
rectangular links of folded metal, each of which looks like a little book. This style dates from the Victorian era,when these chains held lockets.

BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY
Butterfly wing jewelry is made from real butterfly wings. A picture is usually painted on the wings, which is then enclosed in glass or plastic and then mounted in metal to make a pin or pendant or other piece of jewelry Cabochon - A style of cut stone that is oval in shape with a flat back for setting onto a sheet metal backing. This
style is usually used with opaque stones, but sometimes is used with the less expensive transparent gemstones.

Cable chain a chain made of oval intersecting links which lie at 90 degrees to each other as opposed to curb chain where the links are twisted to enable the chain to lie flat. cameo gemstone carved to reveal a raised design often with layers of different colors of stone, reverse of cameo is intaglio where the design is created by incising into the stone making a negative pattern,
when pressed into wax or clay the design would be raised

CAMPHOR GLASS Camphor glass is cloudy white glass that is either blown or pressed. Camphor glass was very popular in the mid-nineteenth century and used for jewelry, candlesticks, vases, dishes, barometers, and other pieces. Camphor glass jewelry imitates rock crystal.

CARNIVAL GLASS: Specifically iridescent glass made in America from 1910-1930. Usually in pressed patterns, it was mostly manufactured by Northwood Glass Co., (Ohio); Imperial Glass Company (Ohio); and the Fenton Art Glass Company (West Virginia). Carnival glass was utilized as ornamental beads for hatpins, circa
1930-1940

CARTOUCHE': A shield or scroll with curved edges
used particularly on gold or silver for a monogram. A cartouche' should not be confused with an escutcheon. An escutcheon is a plate of metal added or applied to the top of a signet or monogram type hatpin head, or to any
other piece of jewelry such as a ring or brooch.

Choker necklaces, also known as dog collars (colliers de chien), first became popular in Victorian times, because Princess Alexandra favored them to cover a small scar on her neck. They naturally remained the rage when she became Queen in the Edwardian era, and they're just as popular today - perfect with our Edwardian-inspired fashions.

CELLULOID: A trademark of Hyatt Bros., Newark, NJ (1868). It is a composition mainly of soluble guncotton and camphor, resembling ivory in texture and color. Celluloid was also dyed to imitate coral, tortoise-shell, amber, malachite, etc. Originally called xylonite, celluloid is the word most often used to describe any imitation ivory, bone or tortoise. But there were many other imitators of such natural elements: "ivorine," "French Ivory," "tortine" and the like. Celluloid should not be confused with the harder and more resilient
plastic known as Bakelite, Catalin, or Marblette.

Celluloid, being highly flammable, lost favor to phenolic resins of the 1930's. Celluloid was first used as synthetic ivory in the manufacture of billiard balls

Champléve - An enamelling technique similar to
cloisonné (see below). The difference is that
channels/designs are cut from thick metal, rather than being placed upon its surface. The design is then filled with enamel powder and fired, and finally smoothed and polished.

CHATELAINE: A decorative clasp or a hook from which many chains are hung to accommodate various household accessories such as thimbles, scissors, keys, files, or to display jeweler's conceits such as watches, seals, and other decorative implements. From chatelaines hung various "necessaries," such as a miniature fan, glove buttoner, or a dog whistle. There were also grooming devices: an ear spoon for cleaning
the ears, a sharp pick for cleaning under the nails, as well as a toothpick. Very short chatelaine chains were called chatelettes; they measured from 2" to 6" in length. An ornamental pink or brooch was attached, although the jewelry could be worn separately. The chatelette chain had a swivel at the end of the chain from which to hang a watch. The brooch was in the popular bowknot of pansy wrought in baroque fashion or an unusual twisted design. Early chatelaines were worn at the waist, but in more recent times, the clasp-type was pinned to the dress or waist, another ornament. Silver card cases,
coin holders, and vanity cases comprised the
chatelaines of the 1925-1940 years, when the chatelaine ring was introduced. From the tiny, short chain, came a clasp which secured a handkerchief and vanity cases equipped to hold scent pills, a little mirror, straight pins,
coins, a lipstick and powder puff. The introduction of rhinestones studded plastic evening purses during the deco period ended the long-reigning chatelaine.

CHRYSOPRASE: Apple-green in color, it is actually a dyed chalcedony or agate which has a cloud-like rather than brilliant color. It is almost like "vasoline" glass, seemingly with an oily surface. This stone was very popular during the Art Deco and Art Moderne periods, particularly when combined with marcasites and silver.
To SEE our Chrysoprase CLICK HERE

CINNABAR: Cinnabar is the only important ore of
Mercury and is a brilliant red or vermilion color mineral used as a red pigment. Most popular in China, the origin of the word is probably Chinese. The color is sometimes referred to as "dragon's blood." The pigment is highly prized by Chinese Artisans for doing inlay work for jewelry and other Artifacts. Cinnabar is a term often misused when referred to as a "gemstone." To see our Cinnabar CLICK HERE

Claddagh ring Irish ring of uncertain derivation,
probably 17th century, the essential characteristics of which are two hands embracing a heart, topped by a crown. The hands symbolize faith, the heart, love, and the crown, loyalty and fidelity. Probably derived from the Italian fede ring.

Cloisonné - The art of decorative enameling collar
semi rigid necklace made from hardened wire or steel wrapped with sterling silver or gold. To see our CLOISONNE Click HERE

Costume jewelry - Jewelry made from imitation or
semiprecious stones/jewels and inexpensive metals. Although it has something of a gaudy reputation today, at its height many pieces were quite stunning. It became very popular during WWI and WWII, and at the rise of Hollywood.

Cuff bracelet - bracelet in semi rigid form open on one side allowing the wrist to pass through instead of over the hand .See a CUFF bracelet HERE

CUT STEEL Cut steel is steel that is cut with a huge number of facets and then riveted to a plate of steel (or other metal). It was widely used in jewelry during the late 18th century, including shoe buckles, buttons, bracelet, necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, and as a setting for
cameos. Early in the 19th century, cut steel quality diminished and was stamped out in strips instead of being individually cut and riveted

DAMASCENING- Damascening is the inlaying of a soft metal (like silver or copper) into a hard metal (like steel). The name comes from the city of Damascus, where this process was first used

DEAD PAWN Dead pawn is an item that was pawned but was never collected by the original owner.

DIAMANTÉ- Diamanté is another word for rhinestone

Dress Clip. A style of brooch popular during the 1930s and 1940s that uses a hinged clip or two-pronged pin to fasten the article to clothing. They were often made in pairs.

Duette Each "duette" has two clips which attach to a pin base; they can be worn as a single pin or as two clips. EARRINGS: Decorated clip or screw backs smaller than modern. (Screw backs were patented in 1894, but not popular until circa 1909.) Threaded posts and nuts larger than modern. Kidney wires thicker than modern.

Estate Jewelry. Jewelry from the twentieth century that has been previously owned. In current usage the term does not necessarily refer to jewelry that has come from
an estate.

Egyptian Revival. Jewelry made in the 19th century that evokes the feeling of ancient Egypt in its use of styles, symbols, and motifs.
GO to our EGYPTIAN Revival Jewelry HERE

Etruscan Revival. A commanding style of 19th century gold jewelry that drew its inspiration from the archeological discoveries at Herculaneum and Pompeii. See AN Etruscan Bracelet HERE

FESTOON: A garland of chain or chains decorated with ornamental drops or pendants which lay on a curve. A chatelaine chain could well be worn in festoon fashion, meaning it would be draped from shoulder to shoulder, forming a curve at the center fall.. See A FESTOON necklace HERE

Fire polished - Glass beads that have been passed
through a flame rather than buffed to smooth their surface.

FLEUR-de-LIS: This is the jeweler's mark for the city of Verdun, France. The term means "flower of light." The fleur-de-lis is the French symbol of life and power and is designed from nature's iris. This symbol is found on many Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Nouveau pieces of jewelry and has been carried out in modern jewelry designs as well.

FOBS: The terms "fobs" and "charms" were
interchangeable from mid-1850 through the 1930's. Watch fobs or watch charms were in vogue in the 1890-s through the turn of the century and certainly on into the 1930's when the pocket watch became more popular
than ever.

FRENCH IVORY (see also Celluloid, Bakelite, and
Plastic): An imitation of ivory tusk in grained celluloid or plastic. "French Ivory" is a registered trademark. Other ivory imitations, not quite as good, were Ivorette, Ivorine, Ivory Pyralin, and DuBarry Pyralin. In the 1870's, there
was a shortage of ivory for billiard balls and a $10,0000 prize was offered to anyone who could produce a substitute. John Wesley Hyatt mixed nitric acid and cellulose (guncotton), to make celluloid. It was the first plastic to look like ivory. "French Ivory" products were produced by J. B. Ash Co. (Rockford, Illinois). Since celluloid was highly flammable, it was eventually replaced with Bakelite and other fire-retardant plastics.

Freshwater pearls an irregular pearl of various colors produced by fresh water molluscs such as mussels and clams, popular in Roman jewelry for its irregular shape and relative availability.

FRUIT SALAD"Fruit Salad" jewelry is costume jewelry that is set with colorful, molded stones.
Garnet a family of red gemstones common in medieval jewelry ranging from the deep red almandine to the blood
red pyrope.

GILT: A method used after the invention of
electro-gilding. Gilding (gilt) is a process of plating a die-stamped piece of base metal to give it a real or pseudo gold or silver color. Most often, and more abundant, are gold color ornaments which have been gilded, rather than silver-color gilt. Most fashion or costume jewelry is rhodium plated rather than silver gilt. Gilding is considered inferior to rolled plate or electroplating

GIVRE BEADS- Givré beads are beads made of
transparent glass fused around a translucent core. Givré means frost in French Thesaurus words for "glass": CM-glass, Cr-glass, achromatic lens, adobe, aerological instrument, agate
glass, alabaster, aneroid barometer, aneroidograph, astigmatic lens, barograph, barometer, barometrograph, beaker, bifocals, bijouterie, billiard table, binoculars,biscuit, bisque, blown glass, board, bottle glass, bowl,
bowling alley, bowling green, brick, bubble,
bullet-resisting glass, burning glass, camera, camphor glass, carnival glass, cement, ceramic ware, ceramics, cheval glass, china, clapboard, clear as glass, coated lens, concave lens, concave mirror, concavo-convex lens, condenser, convex lens, convex mirror, coralene, costume jewelry, crock, crockery, crown glass, crystal,
cut glass, diaphane, display case, distorting mirror, eggshell, enamelware, eyeglass, eyeglasses, eyepiece, face, fiber glass, field glass, firebrick, flat, frosted glass, glass house, glasses, glasslike, glassware, glassy, glaze, goblet, goggles, ground glass, hand lens, hand mirror, house of cards, hurricane-hunter aircraft, hyalescent, hyaline, hygrometer, ice, image, ivory, jewelry, jug, junk jewelry, laminated glass, lath, lens,
level, light, looking glass, lorgnette, lorgnon, magnifier, magnifying glass, mahogany, marble, matchwood, meniscus, mercury, microscope, mirror, object glass, objective, objective prism, ocular, old paper, opaline, opera glasses, pane, paper, parchment, paste, piecrust, pier glass, plane, plank, plate glass, porcelain, pot,
pottery, prism, radiosonde, reader, reading glass,
rear-view mirror, recording barometer, reflector,
refractory, revet, rhinestone, safety glass, satin, scatte r pins, scope, seeing glass, shake, shaving mirror, sheathe, shingle, shopwindow, showcase, silk, slate, slide, smooth, specs, spectacles, speculum, spy glass, spyglass, stained glass, stemware, stone, telephoto lens,
telescope, tennis court, terrestrial telescope, thatch, thermal detector, thermometer, thermostat, tile, tiling, toric lens, transparent substance, trifocals, tumbler, urn,
vacuometer, varifocal lens, vase, velvet, veneer, vitreous, vitrics, vitriform, vitrine, wall in, wall up, wallpaper, watch crystal, watch glass, weather balloon, weather instrument, weather satellite, weather vane, weatherboard, weatherglass, window, window glass, window mirror, windowlight, windowpane, zoom
binoculars, zoom lens

GLOVE RING A glove ring is a clip-like device that is used to attach one's gloves to a purse (or other object). The glove ring has a clip on one end (for the gloves) and a chain with a clasp on the other end (to attach the device to a purse handle)

Gold the most malleable of all metals, yellow in its
natural state though alloyed into various colors relatively inert and certainly the most popular metal in jewelry for over 6,000 years.
To see our GOLD jewelry CLICK HERE

Gold filled - Base metal or silver that has a layer of high karat gold bonded by heat and pressure, not
electroplated, over its surface.

GOLD STONE- Goldstone (also known as aventurine) is a shimmering quartz stone that ranges in color from yellow to red to light green to light brown. The shimmer is caused by tiny metallic particles (mica) within the
stone (not gold)

Gothic revival revival of medievalism which began in the 18th century as part of the romantic movement, but became a more scholarly reinvention of gothic forms in
architecture

Guilloché. A style of enameling in which a continuous, engraved decoration is first created by an engine-turned lathe, and then covered with translucent enamel.

GUTTA PERCHA- Gutta percha is a resin from the
Isonandra Gutta tree. Jewelry was made from gutta percha in the mid-1800's. Gutta percha was also used to insulate electrical cables. The Gutta percha company was founded by Dr. Montgomerie in 1845 and was in business until 1930. To see our GUTTA percha CLICK HERE

GYPSY RING A gypsy ring (also spelled gipsy) is a ring with a recessed stone or stones. Also known as "star setting."

HAIR JEWELRY Hair jewelry is jewelry containing or composed of locks of hair. This type of jewelry was popular in the mid-1800's as a remembrance of deceased loved ones.

Hallmark - marks stamped on jewelry throughout much of the world to attest to the purity of the metal after Assay European hallmarks are legally required, and date back to the early middle ages, an early form of consumer protection against fraud. Marks are not officially required
in the US but are carried by custom and practice. The mark is incised, punched, or stamped on gold or silver to show quality and to signify purity of metal according to
"sterling" or "carat" standard.
Marks Mistaken for Name of
Manufacturer/Designer/Jeweler:
R.P. = Rolled Gold or Silver Plate
E.P. = Gold or Silver Electroplate
G.F. = Gold Filled (usually preceded by numeral; i.e.,
14K G.F. or 10K G.F.)
N.S. = Nickel Silver
G.S. = German Silver
B.M. = Britannia Metal
W.M. = White Metal
G.E.P. = Gold Electro-Plate

INCLUSION an inclusion is a particle of foreign matter contained within a mineral. Inclusions can be solid, liquid, or gaseous.

IVORY Ivory is elephant tusks (the large, upper incisor teeth), which used to be carved into beautiful jewelry, trinkets, and piano keys. The finest ivory is the white African elephant ivory; Asian elephant ivory is yellower. Ivory has a complex characteristic grain which helps
distinguish it from imitations. Using ivory is now banned since elephants are in danger of going extinct. Other tusk-like material is often substituted for ivory, including walrus tusks, whale teeth, hippopotamus teeth, animal
bone, palm seed, and more recently, plastics. Vegetable ivory comes from the inner seed of the nouth American ivory palm and was used for small items, like dice. Synthetic ivory is made from plastics (like celluloid) and is called "French Ivory," Ivoride, Ivorine, or "genuine French Ivory."

JAPANNED A Japanned finish in jewelry is when metal is finished with a lustrous, black lacquer.

JELLY BELLY -A jelly belly is a piece of jewelry (usually a pin) that has a clear lucite or glass center.

JET: Jet is the name given most black jewelry whether it be genuine or glass. Genuine jet will retain its sparkling polish for many years. "Black glass" (also known as 'French Jet', even though most black glass came from Bohemia), will crack, scratch, and become dull. Genuine jet is a brown-black lignite in which the texture or grain of
the original fossilized wood comprised of coal, can still be seen. To see an Example of a JET cameo CLICK here

Lavalier. A type of necklace from which two pendants of unequal length are suspended; sometimes referred to as a negligee pendant.
TO see a LAVALIERE click here

LOCKET - A locket is a pendant that can open up.
Lockets can hold photos, hair, a charm, or other small, precious object. To see our LOCKETS click here

MARCASITE - Marcasite is a shiny, metallic
semi-precious stone

MARQUISE - Marquise cut stones have a shape like an oval with two pointed ends.

Micromosaic. A design or image created by using minute pieces of colored glass or stone called tesserae. Antique inlaying of this type was associated with workshops in Rome. TO see Micromosaic CLICK HERE

MILLEFIORI - Millefiori (meaning "thousand flowers" in Italian) is glass that is formed from multiple canes of colored glass that are fused together and cut crosswise. Millefiori glass can also be made into beads.

Mine Cut. An earlier version of the brilliant or round cut, it has a cushion-shape with more than 58 facets and is distinguished by a large culet and small table. To see a MINE cut DIAMOND Click here

MOSAIC: Creating a motif or design parquetry with minute pieces of colored glass or stone which have been set into plaster. Individual portions of the design are sectioned by metal, similar to the form used in cloisonné
enameling. This type of Venetian jewelry work is also called peitra dura, and was utilized for such designs as foliage, leaves, flowers, pebbles, etc. In pietra dura, the mosaic design is usually set in dull jet or black marble Mourning Jewelry. Jewelry worn to commemorate the death of a loved one, usually in the form of a ring, brooch, or necklace; widely worn during the Victorian era when the death of Prince Albert plunged Queen Victoria
into a lifetime of mourning.

NECESSAIRE Necessaire is another word for etui, a tiny, decorative, cylindrical-shaped case that was often carried on a chatelaine. The necessaire/etui was used to carry small "necessary" items like pencils and scissors. The etui was first used in the 1720's. To

Neoclassical. A design style that employs motifs inspired by classical antiquity, e.g. urns, garlands, greek key, palmette

Nickle silver (German) - An alloy that contains 65% copper, 18% zinc, and 17% nickle

NIELLO: The lines or incisions of a design are
contrasted with the color of the metal, i.e., gold, silver, etc., by applying in several layers a mixture of sulphur, lead, silver and copper. This addition appears black when filled into the engraved metallic work. Niello is a blackish enameling process, providing contrasts in highlights and darkness of the design.

PARURE: Matching jewelry containing three or more pieces such as a necklace, choker, brooch, earrings, bracelet, and ring. Demi-parure consists of only two or three matching sets. TO see a PARURE click HERE

PASTE: A superior glass containing oxide of lead used for jewelry to imitate gems and gemstones. Much paste is actually a composition of pounded rock crystal melted with alkaline salts and colored with metallic oxides. Some paste stones are set with bright foil, a think leaf of metal placed in back of a glass stone to heighten its brilliance. The finest quality paste, however, requires no
foil or backing and is usually claw-set or bezel mounted as if it were the genuine article. Inferior paste may be backed with mercury or quicksilver and applied by machine rather than the more expensive handwork which requires each paste stone to be individually mounted.

PATE-de-VERRE (Paste Glass): Crystals and lead
combined in a pulverized heavy paste compound which is then layered in a mold and kiln-fired. After cooling, the mold is broken. The result is a unique object rendered in muted hues of heavy glass.
Patina. A prized surface effect produced by age and oxidation.

PAVE' : Stones placed so closely together that almost no metal shows between them. To see PAVE stones CLICK HERE

PEKING GLASS - Peking (Beijing) glass was first made in China in the late 1600's, during the Quing Dynasty, when a German priest introduced glass-making techniques to he Imperial court. Early Peking glass was made to imitate porcelain (it often has a translucent, milky sheen). Later (after 1725), an overlay technique was developed in which two (or more) layers of glass are
fused together, and then the upper layer(s) are partially carved away, creating a multi-colored bas relief (similar to a cameo). Peking glass and overlay glass is used for vases, bowls, dishes, beads, snuff bottles, and other objects. Peking glass is still made, but is now manufactured in Poshan, China, and shipped to Peking for final finishing.

Penannular brooch almost annular or circular closure for a cloak, with a small gap to allow the insertion of fabric held in place by a pin which bisects the circle. Later developed into the ring brooch where the circle was completely closed.

Period Jewelry. Jewelry that exhibits the prevailing design characteristics of a particular period, such as Edwardian or Art Deco.

Pietra Dura. From the Italian meaning "hard stone," an inlaying technique using various stones such as malachite, lapis lazuli, and jasper to create articles of jewelry and small decorative objects; usually associated with workshops in Florence

Pinchbeck. "Imitation" gold originally invented by
Christopher Pinchbeck in the 18th century using an alloy of copper and zinc

Piqué. Tortoiseshell inlaid with a pattern of gold and silver; popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Platinum rare, silvery white metallic element of great strength, weight and resistance to corrosion. Difficult to alloy, cast and work owing to its very high melting point. The standard of platinum in the US and most western
countries is 95% pure and is marked PLAT . From
platina, little silver, the word the Spanish gave it when first seen in South America in the 18th century.

PLIQUE-A-JOUR: A translucent cloisonné in which there is no metal backing for the enamel work. During firing, a metal supportive base is used until firing ceases. Then when the piece has cooled and the enamel has hardened, the finished product no longer requires this base so the support is removed.

Poesy short love poem or inscription on rings or other jewelry particularly of the medieval period. Porosity failures in the casting process leaving granular areas in the metal which are difficult or impossible to repair, necessitating recasting. posy alternate spelling of poesy

Purse :Dance purses, necessaires, minaudieres, vanity cases, compacts, coin purses, carryalls, card cases

Renaissance meaning rebirth, the period in western Europe from the mid fifteenth century onward, characterized by a radical development in the arts, politics and sciences

RHINESTONES- Rhinestones are highly reflective
glass made to imitate gemstones . The original rhinestones were qua tz stones ( rock
crystal)) obtained from the Rhine river. These stones were cut to resemble gemstones. The best rhinestones today are made of highly reflective leaded glass which is faceted and polished.

REPOUSSE': Decorating metal by pushing out from behind or from the reverse side, in order to create a design in relief. Repousse' is work in metal. Working from the front is called intaglio, which can be achieved in metal and/or gem. However, neither process can be done in glass or plastics, which must be molded.

Rose gold or red gold is alloyed with copper to give its hue sanskrit ancient and sacred language of Hinduism. See a ROSE gold STICK pin HERE

SARDONYX Sardonyx is a semi-precious stone that is formed by two layers, a red-brown layer of sard and a gray, white, black or brown layer of onyx. Commonly used in cameos.

Sautoir. A long necklace, popular in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras, which terminates in tassels or a pendant.

Sarab dung beetle believed to be sacred by the
Egyptians, often used as an amulet either cast in gold or from semi precious stones, the flat underside was used as a signet .

SPRING ring CLASP   bolt ring (also known as a spring ring) is a hollow circular metal fastening ring with a spring opening. It is used to attach two other rings or links of a necklace or bracelet. The bolt ring was invented early in the 1900's.

Sterling silver the most common British standard of silver, dating back to the currency in use in England in the 14th century, comprising 92.5% pure silver and the balance of copper and other traces. Now widely accepted as an international standard. tarnish A thin deposit of a dirt which discolors the surface of metal and is easily
removed. Also a reaction between metals and other chemicals which discolors the surface, particularly silver which reacts with sulfur (sulphur). The silver sulfide (sulphide) can be removed with a proprietary cleaning product and gentle abrasion.

TREMBLER or Tremblant. A moveable, trembling effect often found in antique brooches or hair ornaments. It is generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of metal mounted to the brooch fitting.

VINAIGRETTE: A small conceit usually executed in gold or silver, with perforation on top. It held aromatic vinegar, smelling salts, or spirits of ammonia. This was a "necessary" carried by expectant mothers from the turn of the century through the 1940's.

VULCANITE -Vulcanite (also called ebonite) is a hard, moldable, polished dark colored (ranging from brown to black) early rubber. Vulcanite was produced by adding sulfur to vulcanized rubber. It was used for combs ,ornaments, and buttonsJe